Ka mau te wehi

Should I go Right......
....Or should I go Left......????
I woke at 0600 this morning and was geeted by a dull overcast (and very dark) day,but after a power packed Banana,Kiwifruit and yoghurt shake I was off into the (still) darkness.
0640 I arrived at Muriwai beach and as I rubbed the remaining sleep from my eyes I could just make out a messy 2ft of SW swell and a offshore breeze.....
After checking out the other side of Maori Bay I returned back to Muriwai and to my surprise the swell had re kicked and combined with the offshore and the in coming tide,it was looking like it was improving.0735 I was in........"HELL the waters cold" and the chilli bite removed all doubt that in fact it IS almost winter.........the passing comment last night from my wife was ringing true in my head......"Ya crazy bugger it wil be freezing"
But that was soon forgotten as I started paddling out.
Tangaroa (God of the sea) was sending the odd 3-4ft bomb thru to put a halt to my fibble attempts to get thru the impact zone and to the relative safety out the back.
But this was a day that Id have to work for and while I tried my best to duck dive under,I was caught and I knew straight away that I had snapped my legrope and as I surfaced I could just see my board racing riderless in towards the shore.........BUGGER I thought then as another West coast special freight train came pounding over me.......as I realised to myself that the 300m swim/body surf in wasnt going to be easy.
On "FINALLY" making it to shore tired and with my pride "slightly" bruised I thought Id pack it in and as I headed up the beach I met up with local icon and "lad" Graeme.
After we exchanged our own special greetings he said to me "Bro you cant call it quits......come on bro give it another nudge!"
Well for the next hour and a half it couldnt have been any better,there were waves for Africa and if you got abit sick of going left......then you just went right,we called each other into wave after wave......STOKED!!!!!


3 Comments:
Shiiiiiiiiit!
These are awsome waves... why didn't you give me a wakeup call and pick me up?
I basically can't get up that early in the morning since my bladder is holding piss just fine.... not like yours..
Master
I told you!!
These are awesome waves !! Why didn't you give me a wakeup call?
Next time don't forget to call me.I will fly to you with my board soon.
I haven't seen such perfect waves in my local Irago area !
Post a Comment
<< Home