17 September 2008

When Planets align

Te Arai Wednesday 17 September 2008
Light offshore west / southwest winds with a straight east swell of a good 3 to 4 ft with a lully 5 ft solid set thru exposed coasts.
So pumping waves this AM thru all spots with winds shifting west / northwest this arvo.
Stoke Meter 8. / 10
Arrived to see just a handful of brave souls taking on the very SOLID 3ft (with some scary 5ft sets) and to see one of the boys get a cover up (although briefly) only to emerge with his surfboard in 2 pieces and with my hand on my heart (more of in my mouth) I ventured in and proceeded to get bashed,smashed,twisted,dumped and just generally BEATEN the hell up........having said that I had the time of my life.
Made one right hand wave ,dropped down to do a bottom turn and looked right towards the wave only to see a SOLID wall of water......and me
thinks that if I'm 6ft and I'm standing at the bottom of a wave it was indeed over 6 ft!!!

I'm happy to say that I did make it,but I guess you just going to have to believe me.






My photo isn't the greatest but if you look at it you may be mistaken for thinking that's its a empty line up........well it is kinda,except for the guy hiding in the tube (look closely I assure you he is there)

The thing is that although there was a bit of a anti cyclone off the East coast and we were expecting some swell it didn't really look like something to get excited about but it just goes to show you that "Mother Nature" is well and truly in charge.

STOKED!!

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